TIPS TIPS for photographers

[elmo]

dude..madaming pwedeng pagpilian..Nikon user ako...

most sa mga entry level ay user friendly talaga..kahit canon o nikon maganda..lahat ng branded na units ok..ang main advantage ng DSLR ay ung semi automatic mode at full manual mode...parehas lang napapalitan ng lens at nakakapag lagay ng Flash units.

ang sagot sa tanung mo ehh kung anu ung pasok sa budget mo...

main advantage ng Nikon..sobrang asteg ang mga lens nila..madaming compatible kahit lumang release na lens..

ung CANON naman ang pinakagusto kong feature ehh ung automatic bracketing ng exposure..sa nikon kasi mano-mano..

kung ako ang bibili ngaun..preferred ko ang Canon..pero since me nikon na ako..upgrade na alang ako ng Lens at soon body naman..mid range na..

sana nakatulong!

 

[proteus665]

thanks! may nag offer kasi ng nik0n d3000 sa akin 4 23k. I tHink yun nalang talaga bibilhin ko. pero ok lang ba image quality ng d3000?

 

[elmo]

12MP...ang panalo talaga sa NIKON ehh lens..hanep sa quality...problema..medyo naka based ung digital function nila sa unang panahon pa...compared mo sa hightech na features ng CANON...

pag isipan mo mabuti..sa una sasabihin mo hobby lang..pero na HOOK ka na..dyan mo makikita ang advantage at disadvantage ng unit mo at ng brand...

pero again..entry level is entry level..they are made for newbies like us para ma adik sa photography...
Good luck sa pamimili!

 

[proteus665]

actually noon pa ako na hook sa photography when i had my n82. ngayon kasi im not satisfied with the cam performance of samsung jet. kaya now im planning to buy slr.. ano ba model ng nikon mo?

 

[elmo]

d40..dude

 

[jieanzelle]

ok to ha.. ngaun ko lang nkita tong thread na to..

thanks sir elmo,

dami na naman ako matututunan.. hehe

 

[sprint guy]

thanks...very useful post!!

 

[elmo]

Sorry

tagal walang update....

For those of you who want to learn what these abbreviations are about, I have compiled a list of the terms used, what it stands for and of course what it will actually do for you or avoid.

General Abbreviations
Before we get into the nitty gritty of why they are all different, let’s look at the commonalities. There are three common terms to describe SLR lenses and these are simple to grasp and relate purely to more creative and performance functions.




Focal length: The scope of the scene captured example 16-35mm. A lens which covers an area of 16mm (relatively wide) zooming in to 35mm.

Maximum aperture: The maximum speed at which the lens can let in light. eg f/2.8 or f3.5 – 5.6

If the lens has only one number then that is the maximum aperture possible.

If the lens has 2 numbers then these are the maximum apertures possible dependent upon the focal length the lens is set to.

The lower the number the wider the lens aperture and the faster it lets in light. (see my forthcoming article on the law of reciprocity)

AF/MF: Switch between Auto Focus and Manual Focus

Canon Lens Abbreviations
Terms to describe Canon lenses

Canon produce an extremely wide range of lenses for their EOS cameras. This married with the ranges produced by Sigma, Tamron and Tokina gives Canon owners an enormous range of Canon Fit SLR Lenses. The abbreviations used by Canon are as below.

EF: Electronic Focus. Lens mount fits the entire Canon EOS DSLR range.

EF-S: As above but only fitting the APS-C sensor digital SLR such as the 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D and 300D, 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D. The S stands for “short back focus,” meaning that the back of the lens is much closer to the CMOS (CCD if you like) than with EF lenses.

USM: Ultrasonic autofocus motor. Two types. USM micro-a direct replacement for the systems on older FD motors and ‘Ring USM’ with manual override.

DO: Diffractive optics. A technology allowing Canon to produce shorter physical length lenses.

TS-E: Tilt-shift lens used for perspective correction in photography, usually in architectural work to alter converging lines and depth of field. Similar to ‘Sinar’ camera.

L Lenses: Canon professional with higher optical quality and not specifically functionality. Usually white in colour. All L series lenses have a red ring on the outside..

MP-E: Macro Photo Electronic. Lenses designed for macro with an electronic aperture control function.

IS: Image Stabilisation, A system designed to reduce hand shake. Nikon version is called VR (Vibration Reduction) and Sigma one is OS (Optical Stabilisation).

Nikon Lens Abbreviations
Describing Nikon Lenses

Nikon produce a large range of lenses with their own specific acronyms. Sigma, Tamron and Tokina also make Nikon Fit SLR Lenses making the selection almost equally as wide

AF DC_ Nikkor Lenses: Defocus-image Control adjusting spherical aberration and thus the blur giving rounded blur effect used for portraits.

CRC (Close-Range Correction): Fot fisheye, wide-angle, Micro, and limited medium telephoto, offering higher quality at closer distances.

DX Nikkor: optimised for bodies with smaller sensors.

ED: Extra-low Dispersion glass. Superior sharpness and colour, correcting blue and red light travel.

IF: Internal Focusing. Lens length remains unchanged

Macro: suitable for close up focusing.

G: Aperture adjusted by the camera body.

Nano Crystal Coat: non-reflective coating for clearer images.

VR: Vibration Reduction: Nikon’s version Image Stabilisation to cur down the effects of hand shake.

PC-E: Perspective Control for architectural photography.

RF: Rear Focusing for smoother auto focus..

Silent Wave Motor: Silent AF


Sigma Lens Abbreviations
Acronyms for Sigma lenses

EX: Sigma’s professional lenses.

DG: For full frame bodies

DC: For APS-C bodies.

ASP: Aspherical lens.

APO: Apochromatic lens. Unique to Sigma and for chromatic aberration.

OS: Optical Stabilisation.

HSM: Hypersonic Motor. Silent AF.

RF: Rear focus..

IF: Inner focus so lens physical length is fixed reducing hand shake on longer focus shots.

DF: Dual focus. Does not rotate during AF.

Conv: Used with Sigma teleconverters.

Tamron Lens Abbreviations
Tamron Lenses described

ASL: Aspherical

AD: Reduces chromatic aberration..

Di: Full frame

Di II: Cropped Frame.

IF: Internal focus.

LD: Low Dispersion Glass to reduce chromatic abberation

Macro: Designed to focus on closer subjects

SP: Super Performance.

XR: Extra Refractive Glass for improved optical results.

VC: Vibration Control as Canon’s IS, Sigma’s OS and Nikon’s VR.

About the Author
For more information on lens acronyms and lens applications visit Park Cameras. A pro dealer who provide full UK warranty SLR Lenses.

Hi, my name is Keith Trigwell. I’m a live music photographer and I also have a passionate interest in most other types of photography, particularly portraiture and Fine Art. My live music shots can be seen at http://www.flickr.com/bigmojo

To pass the time I also write a few articles on photography and technical photographic matters.

 

[smaximuz]

aztig!!!

 

[ch0lera]

sir salamat sa tutorial pag aaralan ko tung mainam!!! Matagal ko ng gustung matuto nito weh....

 

[Luxery]

nice info.. thx!

 

[Punishment25]

thanks nito...UP ko muna to!!

 

[elmo]

sorry tagal walang update...


Here we go..

HOW TO BE A PRO PHOTOGRAPHER


As lovers of photography – we can all admit to dreaming of chucking in the day job and setting up shop as a professional photographer, but for many of us it can remain just that – a dream. But for those with the talent, support system and drive, becoming a freelance photographer can be realised! So what’s stopping you? To help you negotiate your way from using photography as a hobby to making a living from your work we have outlined a few helpful hints below. Obviously not everyone has the luxury of jacking in the job right away but with a little patience and preparation anything is possible!

Financing
Your first consideration has to be monetary. Can you afford to quit tomorrow? For most people this is probably unlikely. Most pros who give up a reliable stream of income to become self-employed suggest saving two to three months salary before even considering what they will write in their resignation.

Perhaps your spouse can afford to support you for a while or perhaps you already have some money invested in savings that can be used to pay the mortgage and bills before work starts to come in – everyone’s situation will be different. Whatever your own personal situation, it is worth sitting down and planning your income and expenditure for the first few months of being self-employed and work out how much you will need to sustain yourself and your family. It is also worth investigating whether you can secure a grant from your local authority, a charity, organisation or even the government.

Finally – there is of course the option of taking out a bank loan to get started, but this should be given a lot of thought before a commitment is made.

Location
Next decided where you want to ‘base’ yourself. Working from home has many obvious benefits but can become quite isolating if you live alone and depending on your strength of will – can also become quite distracting. Also if you are working from home, bear in mind that this may not be possible in some rented accommodation – so check with your landlord. What is more, regardless of whether you are a home owner or are renting – try to avoid dedicating one room solely to your business – for example a study or a home studio – if you do you could be asked to pay business rates.

Working in a collective studio with other photographers is a great way to bounce ideas of people, whilst making and maintaining friendships – however there will be another cost involved. Setting up a shop or your own studio is another option, but again if you start off with limited finance this may be something you can aspire to over time.

Equipment
Sure you have a camera but do you have all the other necessary bits and bobs that a professional could require such as: flash guns, reflectors, filters, shutter release, battery packs, a wealth of lens, tripod, memory cards etc? This will ultimately depend on what genre of photography you enter and so you may not need every accessory under the sun – just be prepared for what you will need. Furthermore just because you are turning pro – doesn’t mean you need ‘professional’ kit! It’s how you use it that counts.

Look online for second hand deals, visit camera exchange stores for bargains, and never forget January welcomes a month of sales!

In some countries, self-employed individuals can claim back certain ‘capital’ costs against their tax bill, so ensure you keep all receipts of new items. Also if you have remembered to keep the receipts of items you are ‘bringing into the business’ i.e. kit that you already own, you may also be able to claim back some of the value of these items back against your tax bill (more on this in part 2). Talk to your account or a tax advisor to discuss these matters further.

Work ethic
Once you have your business in place, equipment at the ready and a brand built, the next key element to put into place is your working style. It goes without saying that to succeed you will need to be reliable and efficient and always meet deadlines, but how will you operate and how will divide your working day? The benefit of being self-employed is being your own boss and thus you can set your own hours, however this could also mean working late or weekends to compensate. A disciplined and motivated approach will ultimately reap the most dividends, but be sure to factor in time to relax and recoup creative energy too. For those less disciplined, create a schedule carved into twenty-four hour portions; colour eight slices to represent sleep and eight or so hours dedicated to work. The remaining hours can then be labelled for relaxation, activities, personal photography projects, housework or non-business related errands. With time, this segmentation will flow more naturally but is a great boon to those who are easily distracted. But be honest with clients and decide a reasonable date when you can realistically deliver on your promises.

In this four part series we will explore everything you need to know from getting started to finding work. In the second part, posted in the next week, we will outline the legal concerns with getting your business up and running. Stay subscribed to dPS for the next installment of this series!


Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.


My personal Input..sabi nila..unless you make out money sa mga pix mo..either by stock photography or services.. you can be considered as a pro

This will depend sa market mo..pwede kasi na ang dami mong alam technically pero di mo naman nagagagmit sa pagkita ng $$$ you are still not considered as a pro...Gadgets does not incur na pro ka na din...madami akong kilala..ang mahal ng gears pero di naman nila na maximize ung potential..

 

[elmo]

How to Pick the Right Camera Lens to Fit Your Needsfrom PictureCorrect Photography Tips by Richard Schneider1 person liked this

"lens or nut" captured by Gabriel Catalin (Click Image to See More From Gabriel Catalin)

So you bought yourself a SLR camera. What now? You obviously need more lenses.
To find out which lenses to suit your specific use is not always easy. There are several abbreviations and specifications you need to find out, and things are not better by the fact that different manufacturers use completely different abbreviations for exactly the same properties.

Below I take a review of the important features you can find on a lens, and how the different manufacturers label them.

Please note that some specs may be slightly simplified to make the article shorter and more readable. For example, the EC designation marked on Canon lenses indicates that it has an autofocus (Electronic Focus), but also indicates which frame the lens uses.

Aperture
Maximum aperture is something which is stated on all lenses. It tells you how much light the lens can get through to the sensor at its best. Much light means you can keep shooting in darker conditions without the image blurring due to camera shake. Aperture is provided as an aperture number, such as f2.8 (or sometimes 1:2.8). The smaller aperture number, the more light to the camera. Theoretically, the absolute best aperture you can get an objective equal to 1, but in practice the brightest lenses offer a maximum aperture of around 1.2. As usual, the consumer will be satisfied with an aperture number of between 2.4 and 3.2. The higher the aperture number, the cheaper is the lens. Telephoto Lenses often have larger aperture numbers.

On zoom lenses, there will usually be stated 2 aperture numbers (for example, f2.8 – f5.6). The smallest aperture number indicates that the amount of light you get the wide angle, while the largest say how much light you get through to the maximum telephoto.

Focal Length
The first thing to consider when choosing your new lens is the focal length you want. The focal length is given in millimeters, and specifies whether the lens is a wide angle or telephoto. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. With a telephoto you’ll naturally get closer to subjects far away. Telephoto lenses are also preferred for portraiture as it protects the facial proportions better than a wide angle, and it is much easier to get a blurred background since telephoto lenses have less depth of field than wide angle. Telephoto lenses have usually also lower brightness than the wide-angle, and are more vulnerable to blurriness during the shoot if there is some camera shake. Telephoto lenses are usually physically larger than the wide angle.

Wide-angle on the other hand is fine for nature photography when you can capture more of the landscape. They’re usually good both in brightness and depth of field, and are usually physically smaller and lighter than telephoto lenses. On the negative side the wide angle is not ideal for photographing people, at least not in a pure portrait context. A wide angle gives an impression of greater distance between what is close and what is distant, and it can thus quickly look like that model has a bigger nose and sunken eyes more than she / he really has. There are also more likely to get the so-called distortion with a wide angle, i.e., the straight lines begin to bend into the edges of the image.

The cross between a wide angle and a telephoto is called a normal lens. This is a lens that renders the environment as we see with our own eyes (in relation to distance and magnification). In the 135 format, a normal lens is 50 mm. Everything with a smaller focal length is called a wide angle, while larger focal lengths are called telephoto.

On regular compact cameras with 3x zoom, the focal length is usually extend from 35 mm to 105 mm (according to the 135 format). It is important to remember that the focal length is connected with the size of the image sensor to use it with, allowing the focal length of a lens to change depending on which camera it is used on. To avoid too much confusion, it is common to explain the focal length of that which is equivalent to the 135 format, or the so-called full-frame Digital SLR cameras.

Fixed or Zoom
For most, the most appropriate would be a zoom lens. Then you get several focal lengths in the same lens and therefore let you get away with fewer lenses to meet your needs. Zoom lenses have always two focal lengths specified, for example 18-55 mm, which shows how much zoom range the lens has. If you want this translated into compact camera language, you can just divider the largest number by the smallest, which in the 18-55 mm case gives a zoom of about 3x.

A fixed lens on the other hand, has some advantages. They are smaller and lighter, and usually have better brightness than zoom lenses. It is also easier to correct for various lens error on a fixed lens than a zoom, and thus it is more likely to improve image quality on a fixed lens than a zoom (although this will vary somewhat based on price and producer).

Some consider it more artistically correct to use a fixed lens, and that it is a bit like cheating to use the zoom, but strictly speaking we do not have to worry about it.

Crop Factor
The various camera manufacturers often use different sizes of image sensors in their SLR cameras. This can be confusing in relation to the size of tele or wide angle a lens actually has. The most common trick is to convert the focal length of what it would have been on the 135 format, or the full frame. To make the conversion you need the crop factor. For example, on Canon’s SLR cameras without a full frame sensor, the crop factor is 1.6. This means that you must multiply the focal length with 1.6 to determine what it would have been on the 135 format. 18-55 mm will be approximately equal to 29-88 mm.

Nikon – 1,5
Canon – 1,6
Pentax – 1,5
Sony – 1,5
Image Stabilization
Although you’ll find optical image stabilization in more and more SLR camera bodies, major manufacturers continue to swear to stabilization in the lens. This is done by moving the lens elements in the lens, which gets the projected image to move the image sensor and thus eliminating camera shake. Manufacturers such as Olympus, Pentax and Sony all use image stabilization in the camera body, so you will not find lenses with stabilization from these suppliers. Below you can see the abbreviations other manufacturers use to specify that their lenses have built-in image stabilization.

Nikon – VR
Canon – IS
Pentax – Image stabilization in the cameras
Sony – Image stabilization in the cameras
Sigma – OS
Tamron – VC
Color Refractive Correction
Photography focuses entirely on the light, and the headache for lens makers is that the light has some strange abilities. One of these is that the different colors of light does bend differently when they pass a lens. This can lead to color shifts, particularly towards the edges in an image. To counteract this, manufacturers are using what they call a low dispersion glass.

Nikon – ED
Pentax – ED
Sigma – APO
Tamron – LD

Distortion
Distortion is a different lens error, where straight lines toward the edges of the image is bent either inward or outward. Most lens manufacturers take this into account during construction and correct it in the best possible way, but it can still occur that you come across specifications, indicating that the lens has correction for exactly this.

Pentax – AL
Sigma – ASP
Tamron – AD
Perspective / Focus Shift
Some lenses for professional use, has the ability to correct perspective. For example, when shooting a high building you may fix the camera slightly upward, and the building will look thinner on top than the bottom. Lens perspective shift can thus rectify this. These lenses also have the option to change the focus plane so that you can improve or worsen the depth of field. As a common consumer it is very unlikely that you’ll need some of those lenses.

Nikon – PC
Canon – TS
For Non-Full-Size Image Sensors
After SLR cameras took the step into the digital world, something had to be done with the lenses. First and foremost, because the digital image sensor had a much smaller area than a traditional negative / dias. Since the image surface is smaller the lenses can be made smaller and lighter, but at the same time these lenses cannot be used with traditional film cameras or digital SLRs with a full frame image sensor.

Nikon – DX
Canon – EF-S
Pentax – DA
Sony – DT
Sigma – DC
Tamron – DI-II
For Full-Size Digital Image Sensors
The manufacturers also make lenses for full frame image sensors, of course. These can also be used on regular film SLRs.

Nikon – Lenses are not marked with DX
Canon – EF
Pentax – FA
Sigma – DG
Tamron – DI
Macro
Macro is a feature many will recognize from compact cameras. It is simply the ability to get very close to your subject and be able to take picture of the little things (insects, flowers, etc.).

Nikon – Micro
Canon – Macro
Sigma – Macro
Tamron – Macro
About the Author
Morris Scjomin has been a professional photographer for over 10 years, practicing exclusively in the field of portraiture, still life, and documentary images. He has an affection and a passion for camera lenses. To buy a new lens can be a frustrating affair. A large and growing selection of lenses makes the choice more difficult, what will you choose? Gain more knowledge and advice before choosing the right lens.



Go to Full Article: How to Pick the Right Camera Lens to Fit Your Needs

Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

 

[euancoh]

wow ayus to gusto ko magaral ng photography...kaso wala ko iba camera kundi canon ixus 800is...
well maganda naman sya kaso di ko gano mapaglaruan kaso di ko lam kung para san yung iba function ngaun lang ako nageexperiment...

tips naman penge magandang setting o marerecommend nyo na setting para sa portrait na ang background eh basic flourescent lang di ko kasi makuha timpla

tnx

 

[elmo]

sorry...tagal na walang update...
walang net sa bahay...

another useful tip:

FROM SCOTT KELBY's book


SHOOTING AT YOUR LENS SHARPEST APERTURE

I mentioned this in volume 1, in the chapter on getting really sharp photos, but I
couldn’t do a chapter on lenses and not include this really important technique. In
short, each lens has a sweet spot—a particular aperture where the lens takes the
sharpest image it can take. Where is that sweet spot? Usually, it’s two stops above the
lowest number your lens can go. So, for example, if you have an f/2.8 lens, then its
sweet spot would be two stops above that, at f/5.6. Will your photo look sharper at
f/5.6 than it will wide open at f/2.8? Yup.

kung stock lens ka

3.5 @ 18mm 5.6 and sharpest ko
at 50mm 5.6 ..around 7.1

 

[jm_palubs]

TS thank you

 

[euancoh]

kinakalikot ko na camera ko para makakuha maganda pix...more info please...tnx

 

[Mave]

Salamat dito nice thread!

 

[nel25]

nice tips and infos, very nice thread