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How to make your own home solar. With Pictures + solar book

Re: You want to make your own home solar? Pasok! Pictures ad

Equalization of Flooded Lead Acid battery (post #2)
Source: http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/

"Equalizing is an overcharge performed on flooded lead acid batteries after they have been fully charged. It reverses the buildup of negative chemical effects like stratification, a condition where acid concentration is greater at the bottom of the battery than at the top. Equalizing also helps to remove sulfate crystals that might have built up on the plates. If left unchecked, this condition, called sulfation, will reduce the overall capacity of the battery. Many experts recommend that batteries be equalized periodically, ranging anywhere from once a month to once or twice per year. "

Trojan battery only recommends equalizing when low or wide ranging specific gravity (+/- .015) are detected after fully charging a battery. Trojan battery recommends an Equalize voltage of 15.5V for a 12V battery.

Matagal na akong naghahanap sa internet ng step by step procedure ng pag equalize ng Solar Master battery, pero wala akong makuha. Karamihan kasi sa mga nababasa kong procedure ay 15V ang equalize voltage na gagamitin. Ewan ko kung napapansin ninyo rin na ang eqalize voltage ng PWM scc ay 14.8V lang (for FLA battery) at 14.4V (for VRLA battery). Ang ginagamit kong scc na pang charge sa 100AH solar master ko ay Epsolar PWM... 14.8V ang equalize voltage... therefore for more than two years na ay hindi ako umaabot ng 15V kasi after reaching 14.8V, mag-e-equalize ang scc ng about 1 hour then magflo-float na sa 13.8V.

Para malaman ko ang kaibahan... yung isang solar master ko na 70AH ay pinapaabot ko ng 15V by connecting it directly to the solar panel without using scc for about one hour (or by using AC charger)... post ulit ako ng update kung ano ang magiging resulta.
 
Hellow mga master balak ku kc bumi nang grid tie with limiter..

kung pa upgrade ako nang pa upgrade.
halimbawa:
nag start ako 1kw grid tie with limiter then
bumili ako ulit nang isapang 1kw na grid tie.. so 2kw na (xempre me panel na kasama)..

after a year naisipan kung mag apply net metering.. ok lang ba ung grid tie ko ung gagamitin ko sa net metering or kailangan pang SMA?
 
tanong kulang mga master san pwedeng makabili ng voltmeter and ammeter pang monitor lng sa battery ng solar ko salamat.
 
Good news for the planet :clap:

A growing worldwide shift to renewable energy has played a "critical role" in stalling global carbon emissions, the world's leading energy analysts declared on Wednesday.
According to the International Energy Agency's (IEA) preliminary analysis of 2015 data, for the second year in a row, the amount of carbon emitted from the world's power sector remained essentially flat at 32.1 billion tons.

Declining coal use in China and the United States, the world's two biggest emitters of carbon, and a surge in new renewable energy production were credited for driving that trend.


More here: http://www.commondreams.org/news/2016/03/16/renewable-energy-surge-behind-unprecedented-halt-global-carbon-emissions
 
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CHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF MOTOLITE SOLAR MASTER 100AH AT DIFFERENT DEPTH OF DISCHARGE USING 25A CHARGING CURRENT
Product Code: SMN100 (N100), Data Sheet: Rev.00 03192011

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Share ko lang itong Data Sheet ng Solar Master 100AH showing the Charge Characteristics at different DoD using a CONSTANT CURRENT of 25A until the voltage stops increasing. Nagulat lang ako kasi mataas ang charging current na ginamit (25A), samantalang ang mga nababasa ko sa internet, ang recommended na charging current ay 3% - 10% of rated capacity of the flooded lead acid battery. Check these websites to see for yourself:

1) http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TrojanBattery_UsersGuide.pdf
2) http://www.homepower.com/articles/s...t-products/ask-experts-battery-charging-rates

Makikita din sa chart na umabot ng more than 16V bago ma-full charge ang 100AH battery. Base din sa mga nabasa ko, karaniwan sa Flooded Lead Acid Battery, ang 15V to 15.5V ay overcharge na or ginagamit na ito na pang-equalize voltage.

Ang advantage ng ganitong charge characteristic ay mataas ang tolerance niya sa overcharge… ang problemang nakikita ko ay ang issue ng undercharging that will eventually lead to sulfation… kasi karamihan ng PWM scc, ang pinaka-mataas na voltage na pwedeng maabot ay naka-set sa 14.8V… samantalang kailangan pala abutin ang more than 16V para ma-full charge ang solar master (based on the data sheet). Samakatuwid, ang charge controller na dapat gamitin ay yung pwede ma-adjust ang HVD (high voltage disconnect). Unfortunately, ang scc na may feature na ganyan ay 3K pataas na ang presyo.

Ang data sheet ay makukuha if you google ”motolite solar master data sheet”, then click “Images”… ewan ko kung totoo ito, kasi hindi siya available sa mismong website ng motolite… sana ay mag-publish ng clarification ang Motolite Solar Master regarding this issue.

Data sheet url: http://s5.postimg.org/9fdy3ihd3/SM100_Data_Sheet.jpg
 
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CHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF MOTOLITE SOLAR MASTER 100AH AT DIFFERENT DEPTH OF DISCHARGE USING 25A CHARGING CURRENT (Update #2)

Bakit 25A ang ginamit na charging current sa data sheet ng Solar Master 100AH?

Sa wakas nakita ko rin ang sagot sa tanong ko dito: http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/4345-agm-charging ... pero ang tanong ay napalitan ng bagong tanong... pang Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery charging dapat ang 25A?... bakit ito ang ginamit na pang test sa solar master, samantalang hindi naman siya AGM battery? Ang description ng solar master ay "Conventional Dry Charged battery"... Flooded or Wet Cell battery siya, di ba? Ang sabi sa trojanbattery.com, kapag Flooded battery, ang dapat na charging current ay 3 - 5% of the rated battery capacity... so 5% of 100AH is 5A lang dapat... so bakit 25A?

ito ang sagot ni rollsbattery.com...

"The initial charge current is recommended to be set at I1= 0.25 x C20 (Imax= 0.35 x C20) in order to fully charge the batteries within a reasonable amount of time. It can be set lower, however please be aware that charge time will increase so make sure the batteries have enough time to fully charge before being put back into service." ... ah ok... so para bumilis lang makuha ang resulta ng testing sa battery.

ano ang masama sa 25A charging current?

... ayaw ng Flooded lead acid battery ang masyado mataas na charging current... nasisira ang plate niya... ang maximum charge current ay 10% of rated battery capacity lang (10A lang dapat).

bakit malakas ang loob ng solar master na gumamit ng 25A na charging current?

... Ang sabi sa Battery Feature ng solar master ay... "Composed of heavy-duty glass-mat separators that resists plate corrosion thereby increasing battery life"... ah, kaya naman pala malakas ang loob... flooded battery nga siya pero ang ginagamit niya na plate separator ay GLASS MAT... na katulad ng ginagamit sa AGM battery.

Therefore, ginamit lang ang 25A as charging current to get the charge characteristics of 100AH solar master in the preparation of the data sheet, PERO, hindi ito ang recommended charging current ng solar master 100AH... How about me?... ang charging current na ginagamit ko sa mga setup ko ay less than 10% of the rated battery capacity (or <10A for 100AH solar master battery)... so far, two years and three months na siya ngayon ay OK pa rin.
 
Sir Tristan, just forget about what Motolite say... I guess they just copy/paste from other websites! I even wonder if they have any knowledge in batteries :rofl: They just assemble the batteries and that's it... don't expect any reliable support from them!

I think the rule of 10% of the capacity rating for charging current is the best to follow...
 
Sir Tristan, just forget about what Motolite say... I guess they just copy/paste from other websites! I even wonder if they have any knowledge in batteries :rofl: They just assemble the batteries and that's it... don't expect any reliable support from them!

I think the rule of 10% of the capacity rating for charging current is the best to follow...
error nga siguro yung data sheet na yan regarding charge characteristics of solar master 100AH... dito kasi sa FB page: https://web.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.684697795007401.1073741835.588453977965117&type=3 ... ay hindi na yan isinabay.
 
Hi Maam Magtatanong lang po ako, kung pudi ko ba gamitin ang Inverter na1200w na may load na TV at PC sabay ng 5pcs.4w each na 12Vdc na ilaw at DC fan 8w naka kabit sa scc hindi ba masisira ang scc or Inverter Nito,. sa battery minomonitor ko using digital tester . salamat
 
Hi Maam Magtatanong lang po ako, kung pudi ko ba gamitin ang Inverter na1200w na may load na TV at PC sabay ng 5pcs.4w each na 12Vdc na ilaw at DC fan 8w naka kabit sa scc hindi ba masisira ang scc or Inverter Nito,. sa battery minomonitor ko using digital tester . salamat
IMO. pwede... medyo malakas lang humigop ng kuryente ang 1200W na inverter na may load na TV at PC... meaning, madaling ma-low batt si battery.... yung DC loads mo naman na naka-kabit sa scc (total 28W / 12V = 2.3A) ay kayang-kaya maski ng 10A na scc.
 
Hi Sir puyde ko ba gamitan ng ckt. breaker na 32A ~230/400V ang scc in between scc PV and scc battery.salamat sa pagsagot ang alam ko kasi dc na ckt breaker ang ilagay.
 
Sino po pede mag suggest ng solar power set up?... to power up a Personal Computer that will run probably 24hrs... Salamat po sa sasagot.
 
sir 19charly2012... ang current na lumalabas galing sa PV ay DC current... therefore, DC breaker din ang dapat gamitin... magka-iba ang design ng AC breaker sa DC breaker... SAFETY dapat ang main consideration natin.

sir donjun... IMO, "to power up a Personal Computer that will run probably 24hrs... ", gagayahin ko ang design ng mga telcos... ang gagamitin ko ay UPS na malaki... backup ko lang ang solar setup.
 
Hi Sir puyde ko ba gamitan ng ckt. breaker na 32A ~230/400V ang scc in between scc PV and scc battery.salamat sa pagsagot ang alam ko kasi dc na ckt breaker ang ilagay.

NO DC breaker only! Do you really need between pv and scc + between scc and battery...? it's your choice but it's not really needed. But you need one between your battery and your inverter, that's for sure!

Sino po pede mag suggest ng solar power set up?... to power up a Personal Computer that will run probably 24hrs... Salamat po sa sasagot.

Depende sa wattage ng PC... let's say 200 watt pc... you have option 1 & 2 with charge controller or option 3 without charge controller! But running an appliance as big 24hrs a day is not recommended for the appliance and for your setup as you need to recharge your battery without load time to time! If you really want to use it 24/7 you will need more batteries and therefore more panels... I will just give you options including 4 hours break to allow the batteries to recharge better... If this does not suit you, we can adjust the setup!

Option 1 (the more expensive):

500 watt inverter (preferably pure sine wave)
3x 120 Ah deep cycle batteries
400 watts solar panels
20 amp MPPT controller

Option 2:

500 watt inverter (preferably pure sine wave)
3x 120 Ah deep cycle batteries
500 watts solar panels
30 amp PWM controller

Option 3 (the less expensive, but you need to check your battery voltage time to time with a digital multi tester to be sure it is properly charge)

500 watt inverter (preferably pure sine wave)
3x 120 Ah deep cycle batteries
50 to 80 watts solar panels
 
Lead Acid Battery Lifetime
Source: http://www.pveducation.org/pvcdrom/batteries/remaining

Over time, battery capacity degrades due to sulfation of the battery and shedding of active material. The degradation of battery capacity depends most strongly on the interrelationship between the following parameters:

1) the charging regime which the battery has experienced
Personal experience:
* charging amperes is 3% to 10% of battery capacity
* max charging voltage is 14.8V using SCC
* equalization charge is 15V (frequency is as needed)
2) the discharging regime which the battery has experienced
Personal experience:
* discharging amperes is max 10% of battery capacity
3) the DOD of the battery over its life
Personal experience:
* daily DoD is 30%, max of 50% during long brownout
4) the exposure to prolonged periods of low discharge
Personal experience:
* Recharge immediately after each use to prevent hardening of lead sulfate. Never store on low charge.
5) the average temperature of the battery over its lifetime
Personal experience:
* Battery location is about 27 to 30*C (high temperature operation increases the aging rate of the battery)

Watering: Personal experience: about 20ml/cell distilled water (Absolute or Wilkins) is added every month.

Status of my solar master 100AH battery as of 3/23/16:
2 years & 3 months, capacity is still the same as brand new.

... share ko lang...
 
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Bypass diodes of solar panel blew up - what did we do wrong?) - (12V system)

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.. share ko lang itong nabasa ko sa SolarPowerPhilippines FB group (dated 3/23/2016), para kung mangyari sa ating mga sarili ay alam na natin.

"Naku kaya pala biglang bagsak ng charging ko sa isang setup, ito pala ang dahilan, from 20v naging 9v nalang. Sunog mga blocking diode (should be bypass diode) ko sa loob ng CDRking Panel (2 years old). Mga kasolar, nangyari naba sa inyo ito? kung may naka experience na sa inyo nito, anong value poh ng blocking diode ang inilagay nyo?" - Erwin Sambat

Ang sabi ng mga experts, ang cause ng pagka-sunog ng bypass diode ay reverse polarity... ang solar panel ay kinabit direct to battery... pero nagkabaliktad ang polarity. Dalawa ang naging opinyon ng mga experts:

1. Hindi dapat masira ang solar panel... dapat ay gumana pa ang isang panel maski walang bypass diode.
2. Masisira ang panel kung ang amperes na galing sa battery ay lumampas sa ampacity rating ng tab wire (10-15A)... pwedeng maputol ang tab wire ng panel.
Nag-research ako sa internet (link below) at nabasa ko na tama ang mga experts... kapag nabaliktad ang polarity, masisira ang panel kung ang amperes na galing sa battery (hindi na-block ng diode) ay lumampas sa 10-15A dahil sa mapuputol ang tab wire sa loob ng panel.

Therefore, kung magko-connect ng panel direkta sa battery... DAPAT ay doble ingat... para hindi mabaliktad ang polarity.

Similar case here, but the panel is still OK: http://www.ata.org.au/forums/topic/2473
 
magtatanong lang ho sana..

plano ko ho kasing maglagay rin nang solar panel system d2 sa bahay..

mga magkano kaya ang magagastos?

anong mga dapat bilhin?

6kw per day ung nakukunsumo namin d2..
 
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