hi, ronnel25.
nag-backread po ako, correct me if i'm wrong.
eto po setup mo 12v batt, without charge controller, 2 pcs 12v cpu/cooling fan in parallel connection...
kung wala pong charge controller, voltage output po nyan ay 19-21v from panel, then nag-konek ka po ng 2 pcs 12v cpu/cooling fan in parallel connection sa battery...malaki po chance na sirain yang fan nyo!kasi po from panel ay 19-21v.
now,solution ko po dyan is a 6ampere diode sa positive po ng wire ng 12v cpu/cooling fan nyo po idugtong, ang task po ng 6ampere diode ay to release an stable 12v output from the battery to prevent na masunog yung maliit na motor ng 12v cpu/cooling fan.
View attachment 879600
may polarity po ito, yung may white band po ay positive at yung kabilang dulo po ay negative.
yung connection po ganito...batt positive terminal->negative wire diode->positive wire diode->positive wire po ng 12v cpu/cooling fan.
mga P30 lang po yang diode, gawin nyo na po bago masunog yang maliit na motor nyo...ganyan din po kasi ginawa ko dito, mukhang 1 step ahead yata ako pagdating sa experimentation...palibhasa mga 3 pcs na rin nasunog kong ganyan, bago ko na-realize, lol...
yan din po solution sa mga starter battery(e.g. truck/car battery)
regarding sa connection po:
for parallel:12v+12v=12v
for series:12v+12v=24v
TRIVIA:
an
ampere is defined as the amount of charge flowing per second...
source:
http://www.nature.com/news/ampere-to-get-rational-redefinition-1.14512
ibig pong sabihin need natin ng mas mataas na ampere input|(e.g. panel w/o controller), para sa mas mataas na ampere output(e.g. ref, fan motor, CRT TV). madalas po ginagamit natin ay mga 20ampere controller...so, kung gusto po nating nag-tsacharge batt natin sa araw and at the same time ay gumagamit tayo ng appliances, masdan po natin kung ilang ampere ang input at output natin.