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How to make your own home solar. With Pictures + solar book

Old and New battery connected in parallel

i-kwento ko lang nabasa ko sa solar power philippines FB group...

meron nag-parallel connect ng old battery sa new battery... parehong 12V, brand at capacity... magkaiba lang ang edad... after using for three months, namatay na ang old battery pero nadamay at humina na rin ang new battery... at tsaka pa lang nagtanong kung pwede i-combine ang old battery sa new?... share ko sa inyo mga nabasa ko sa internet regarding this issue…

29by5vc.jpg


“Why it is bad to put an old and new battery together is the same as why it is bad to put two batteries of different capacity together. Because the charge will be wrong for one, the other, or most likely both (too little for the higher battery, too much for the lower one). The greater this difference is, the greater the risks of either frying the old battery (in a possible sudden failure) or cutting years off the life of the new one.” (Cariboocoot, solar-electric.com, September 2012)

“As batteries age, their internal resistance changes, and this resistance determines the charging current that passes through the battery.” (ggunn, PV Engineer, solar-electric.com, September 2012)

“There are drawbacks to using banks of batteries. If a battery inside the group is replaced, the new battery will increase its rate of self-degradation until it is at the same level as the battery bank. At the same time, the new battery increases the self-degradation of the other batteries in the bank. It is recommended replacing the entire battery bank rather than just a single battery since the battery bank is only as strong as its weakest battery.” - < http://www.koldban.com/Kapower_White_Paper_s/30.htm>
 
ang volts at amps na lumalabas sa panel ay depende sa liwanag ng araw... minsan lalakas, minsan hihina... ang priority ng solar panel ay ang load... meaning, ang current na galing sa panel ay dadaloy muna sa load... kung meron pang matira, tsaka lang pupunta sa battery...

kung ang voltage ng panel ay +18V tapos walang controller, DAPAT talaga kabitan ng non-sensitive load (ex dc fan) para bumaba ang voltage.

"pwedi kaya sa led tv isupply hangang 14.4 VOLTS?"... IMO, kung meron kasing adapter, ibig sabihin ay need ng appliance na "regulated" ang power supply... meaning, hindi recommended ng manufacturer na fluctuating ang power.

personal experience ko... ang dc fan, 12VDC powerbank/cp charger at led bulbs ko ay rekta sa battery... ang 7inch lcd monitor ay sa SCC ko kinabit at ang mga adapters ng router, modem at network drive ay sa psw inverter nakasaksak.... going 2 years na this 2015, hindi pa rin nasisira.[/QUOTE]


thanks po sirTristanWS,sa modified inverter ko na lang kinabit yung led tv,kayang kaya naman pala basta malakas sikat ng araw habang nag chacharge,

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sir tristaws one year na ngayon ang aking 3sm motolite car battery,sa 14 watts dc fan 10 hours lang sa gabi ginagamit,direct solar charging sabattery,dati umaabot ito 12.7volts rest in 6 hours,pero ngayong november hangang 12.67 volts na lang.dinidiskonik ko sa solar 14.4 VOLTS/with load,14.8 VOLTS without load,normal po ba ito sa ganitong automotive battery,
thanks po,
 
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thanks po sirTristanWS,sa modified inverter ko na lang kinabit yung led tv,kayang kaya naman pala basta malakas sikat ng araw habang nag chacharge,

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sir tristaws one year na ngayon ang aking 3sm motolite car battery,sa 14 watts dc fan 10 hours lang sa gabi ginagamit,direct solar charging sabattery,dati umaabot ito 12.7volts rest in 6 hours,pero ngayong november hangang 12.67 volts na lang.dinidiskonik ko sa solar 14.4 VOLTS/with load,14.8 VOLTS without load,normal po ba ito sa ganitong automotive battery,
thanks po,
yung motolite car battery ko ay umabot ng 2.5 years... based on personal experience, normal yan sa 1 year old automotive battery...

ang pinaka-importante na HUWAG mong gagawin sa car battery ay ma-deep discharge sya... kung ang load mo sa gabi ay 14W x 10 hrs = 140/780 x 100 = 18% DoD... palagay ko, kung ma-maintain mo na palaging ganyan, baka umabot ng +3 years ang battery

based on personal experience at sa mga nabasa ko sa mga forums... sa isang over-discharge lang ay napakalaking bawas agad sa cycle life ng car battery.
 
Switches: Re-rate AC Current to DC Current rating

... bumili ako ng toggle switch sa hardware na pwedeng gamitin sa 12VDC system (picture below)... pagdating ko sa bahay, tiningnan ko ang Current Rating... ganito ang nakasulat... "Current Rating: 3A @ 250VAC, 6A @ 125VAC"... bakit puro VAC nakasulat?...

DPDT11.jpg


pwede ba talaga itong gamitin sa DC current?... kung gagamitin sa DC current, ano ang equivalent Current Rating?

napa-research tuloy ako sa internet... at share ko natutunan dito >>>... http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/electricalratings.pdf

The AC current rating could be re-rated to DC current rating by multiplying the 125VAC rating by the "LOAD FACTOR". The value of a load factor will vary according to five classifications: 1. Resistive load 2. Inductive load 3. Lamp load 4. Motor load 5. Capacitive load

In my case, since I will use the "6A @ 125VAC" switch for an " Inductive Load"... the calculation is as follows;

To use at 12V DC inductive, multiply 6A x 1 (inductive load factor) = 6A @ 12VDC

The value of LOAD FACTORS are given in a table from the pdf link above.
 
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Old and New battery connected in parallel

i-kwento ko lang nabasa ko sa solar power philippines FB group...

meron nag-parallel connect ng old battery sa new battery... parehong 12V, brand at capacity... magkaiba lang ang edad... after using for three months, namatay na ang old battery pero nadamay at humina na rin ang new battery... at tsaka pa lang nagtanong kung pwede i-combine ang old battery sa new?... share ko sa inyo mga nabasa ko sa internet regarding this issue…

http://i66.tinypic.com/29by5vc.jpg

“Why it is bad to put an old and new battery together is the same as why it is bad to put two batteries of different capacity together. Because the charge will be wrong for one, the other, or most likely both (too little for the higher battery, too much for the lower one). The greater this difference is, the greater the risks of either frying the old battery (in a possible sudden failure) or cutting years off the life of the new one.” (Cariboocoot, solar-electric.com, September 2012)

“As batteries age, their internal resistance changes, and this resistance determines the charging current that passes through the battery.” (ggunn, PV Engineer, solar-electric.com, September 2012)

“There are drawbacks to using banks of batteries. If a battery inside the group is replaced, the new battery will increase its rate of self-degradation until it is at the same level as the battery bank. At the same time, the new battery increases the self-degradation of the other batteries in the bank. It is recommended replacing the entire battery bank rather than just a single battery since the battery bank is only as strong as its weakest battery.” - < http://www.koldban.com/Kapower_White_Paper_s/30.htm>

tanong ko po n kung ganoon hindi na advisable na magdagdag ng battery even a month lang ang nakaraan
 
tanong ko po n kung ganoon hindi na advisable na magdagdag ng battery even a month lang ang nakaraan
if the age difference of the two batteries is only a month, i think it's still OK... the reason is... it would take a number of charge/discharge cycle to achieve the manufacturer's rated capacity... at least the new battery will just self-degrade for only a month.

pero kung ang warranty ng battery ay one year lang... palagay ko, kung mag-add ng battery after three months ay lugi na.
 
if the age difference of the two batteries is only a month, i think it's still OK... the reason is... it would take a number of charge/discharge cycle to achieve the manufacturer's rated capacity... at least the new battery will just self-degrade for only a month.

pero kung ang warranty ng battery ay one year lang... palagay ko, kung mag-add ng battery after three months ay lugi na.

august pa ako nagsimula ng solar ko nakakapanghinayang na makipagsapalaran kung magdadagdag bili na lang ng bago talaga pano itong lumang battery ano kaya pwedeng gawin dito sayang nman
 
august pa ako nagsimula ng solar ko nakakapanghinayang na makipagsapalaran kung magdadagdag bili na lang ng bago talaga pano itong lumang battery ano kaya pwedeng gawin dito sayang nman
ginagamit ko ang lumang battery na pang-ilaw kung gabi... bale hiwalay na setup sya... may sariling panel na 40 watts at cdr king scc... pinipiga ko sya hanggan tuluyan nang mamatay... BTW, ang mga batteries ko ay lahat motolite... bakit? kasi pwedeng i-trade in ang lumang motolite battery ng 400 to 500 pesos.. yun ang huling pakinabang ng lumang motolite battery ko.

minsan naman ay ginagamit ko sya na battery ng UPS... parang emergency light na umi-ilaw kapag nag brownout bilgla... umaabot din ng more than two hours sa dalawang 5 wattts na led bulb... beep lang nang beep ang UPS... pero tinatapalan ko ng vulcaseal ang beeper para humina ang beep.

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DIY Solar Street Light

kwento ko ulit nabasa ko sa solar power philippines FB group...

meron nag-setup ng solar street light, ganito ang specs; 50w PV, 12w led light, 26AH battery and 5A SCC... noong simula umaabot ng 12 hours (6PM to 6AM)... (automatic OFF kapag may liwanag na)... kalaunan ay 1AM pa lang ay namamatay na ang ilaw (7 hrs pa lang, naglo-low voltage disconnect na)... ano daw kaya ang problema?

LED-Foto-300x210.png

in theory, ang computation ng nasabing street light, ay para sa isang gabi lang... meaning, dapat kinaumagahan ay kailangan ma-full charge ulit ang battery sa loob ng 5 hours na liwanag ng araw... sa palagay ko... nagsunod-sunod ang makulimlim na panahon kaya, undercharge palagi ang battery... kaya malaki agad ang ibinaba ng capacity... ang problema ay kung naging sulfated na ang battery at hindi na natutunaw sa loob ng isang araw.

therefore... kapag pala eksaktong pang-isang araw lang ang battery... dapat ang battery ay accessible o may paraan para ito ay ma-charge sakaling sunod sunod ang makulimlim na panahon...

isa pang napansin ko... ang battery box ay nasa taas ng poste, sa ilalim ng panel... mainit kaya ang temperature doon?... ayaw na ayaw kasi ng battery ang init.

ang isa pang solusyon sa isyung ito, ay bawasan ang load (gawing 6 watts lang)... para good for two nights na ang battery (or 2 days backup power).
 
Sorry guys off topic. need ko lang ng help and advice nyo.

Onti lang naman load sa bahay anung electric wire kaya maganda pambahay. Saan kaya makakabili ng murang electrical wire around Quezon city.
kung may site sila pa link na lang.

Thanks guys sensya na wala lang mapagtanungan.
 
Sorry guys off topic. need ko lang ng help and advice nyo.

Onti lang naman load sa bahay anung electric wire kaya maganda pambahay. Saan kaya makakabili ng murang electrical wire around Quezon city.
kung may site sila pa link na lang.

Thanks guys sensya na wala lang mapagtanungan.
hehe... taga probinsya karamihan sa amin dito sa thread ni ma'am TS... paki-tanong mo na lang sa pinakamalapit na hardware... basta sabihin mo lang kung saan mo gagamitin ang electric wire para tamang wire size ang ibigay sa iyo...

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How Do Lead Acid Batteries Die? Common Causes of Battery Failure

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Number 1
"Approximately 85% of premature deep cycle and starting batteries failures that are not recharged on a regular basis is due to the accumulation of lead sulfate or sulfation. Sulfation is caused when a battery's State-of-Charge drops below 100% for long periods or under charging."

When the electrodes are repeatedly not fully charged, then a rapid decrease in battery capacity may occur because of progressive accumulation of lead sulfate. Sulfation creates some sort of insulation layer on the electrode surface, inhibiting electrolyte contact with the active mass. Sulfation grows if; a) the battery is left standing for a long time in discharge state, b) in case of electrolyte stratification (nasa ilalim ang sulfuric acid) and c) incomplete charging. In the course of sulfation originally small crystals of lead sulfate grow to big ones. Big crystals of lead sulfate increase internal resistance of the cell converting them back to the active mass during charging becomes very hardly possible.

image4_w.jpg

Images of big crystals of lead sulfate on the left, healthy state on the right

Number 2
"Approximately 50% of premature car battery failures are caused by the loss of water from normal recharging/charging due to the lack of maintenance, evaporation due to high temperature, and overcharging."

Number 3
"Normally well maintained and properly charged deep cycle batteries naturally die due to positive grid corrosion causing an open connection."

Conclusion
"If your storage battery is more than three years old and you live in a hot climate, then your battery is probably living on borrowed time. (hiram na buhay sa wikang pinoy)"

Samakatuwid... para masabi natin na ang ating battery ay sulit na sulit... DAPAT "more than three years" natin itong magamit.

.... bow.

Sources:
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/how-do-batteries-die.html
http://www.intechopen.com/books/energy-storage-technologies-and-applications/electrochemical_energy_storage
 
pwede po ba ang naiisip kong set up n dalawang 100 watts solar panel 30 amperes na scc yung battery ko ay 70 AH, sa battery kong ito madali syang macharge at pag na charge na niya ang battery at mag blink na scc sa day time ay gagamitin n ng 2 dc fan yung excess power
 
pwede po ba ang naiisip kong set up n dalawang 100 watts solar panel 30 amperes na scc yung battery ko ay 70 AH, sa battery kong ito madali syang macharge at pag na charge na niya ang battery at mag blink na scc sa day time ay gagamitin n ng 2 dc fan yung excess power
yes, maski 100 watts na load ay kaya basta maliwanag sikat ng araw... ganyan dapat ang pag-gamit ng "free" electricity from the sun... dapat sure na sure ka na naka-full charge na ng battery, bago gamitin yung excess power... that way, sure na sure ka din na tatagal ang buhay ng battery... gaya ng nasabi ko sa previous post, DAPAT magamit natin ang battery ng more than three years para lumabas na bumalik ang perang pinambili ng battery.

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SHORT CIRCUITS WITHIN LEAD ACID BATTERY CELL

… palagi ako nakakabasa sa mga forums na ganito ang sinasabi… “nasira ang battery ko.. nag SHORT CIRCUIT ang isang cell”… actually, wala din akong idea kung ano ang meaning nito… kaya nag-research ako… share ko sa inyo…

Short circuits may occur within a cell...
1. as a result of damage to one or several separators between the positive and negative plates;
2. because of excess accumulation of sediment in the bottom of the cell container, or
3. because of “treeing”, the growth of dendrites in the lead sediment.

... mas madaling ma-intindihan, kung may pictures...

Shorted_plates.JPG

1. damage to one or several separators between the positive and negative plates

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2. excess accumulation of sediment in the bottom of the cell container

sulfatering_1.jpg

3. Dendrites forming at the negative plate. These sharp, needle shaped crystals can short circuit the positive and the negative plates.

The signs of short-circuits inside the battery are:

• continuous decrease in electrolyte density (specific gravity reading), notwithstanding the fact that the battery is receiving a normal charge;
• rapid loss of capacity after a full charge; (mabilis ma-discharge)
• a low open circuit voltage. (cannot reach higher than 10.5 volts when being charged)​

... pansin ko din, na ang "internal short circuit" ay hindi kasabay sa common causes of battery failure... bakit?... kasi mas kino-consider sya na "factory defect"... meaning, palpak ang pagka-pack ng mga plates... malas lang natin kung bumigay sya a few days after the warranty date... sorry na lang tayo if the seller would not honor the warranty.

Sources:
http://bestbatteries.co.nz/battery-care/battery-faults.html
http://alpinepowersystems.blogspot.com/
 
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yes, maski 100 watts na load ay kaya basta maliwanag sikat ng araw... ganyan dapat ang pag-gamit ng "free" electricity from the sun... dapat sure na sure ka na naka-full charge na ng battery, bago gamitin yung excess power... that way, sure na sure ka din na tatagal ang buhay ng battery... gaya ng nasabi ko sa previous post, DAPAT magamit natin ang battery ng more than three years para lumabas na bumalik ang perang pinambili ng battery.

Thanks po
 
malinaw po ba yung ganitong solar bulb>>>>> http://www.cdrking.com/index.php?mod=products&type=view&sid=20054&main=167? pwede na kaya yung ganito sa loob at sa labas ng bahay plano ko talaga bumili ng solar kahit para sa ilaw lang namen kaso wala ako idea kung maliwanag na ba yung mga ganitong type ng solar kit tsaka kung ilan oras magcharge i mean sa maghapon expose ng solar panel eh makakaya ng magpailaw ng 10-12 hours?


Mayroon ako nito, nabili sa cdr-king at gamit ko pa ngayon. But, I only used two bulbs, instead of three. Kung tatlo sabay, mga six hours lang ang gamit. Kung dalawang bulbs, tatagal from 7pm to 5 am. I use it to illuminate the house main gate and the stair inside the house. Full charging time is about 6 hours. I think the manual re charging for four days is a typo, and should have been read as four hours. Medyo nakatipid ng konti.
 
Mayroon ako nito, http://www.cdrking.com/index.php?mod=products&type=view&sid=20054&main=167?#.VkZ-89IrJp8
nabili sa cdr-king at gamit ko pa ngayon. But, I only used two bulbs, instead of three. Kung tatlo sabay, mga six hours lang ang gamit. Kung dalawang bulbs, tatagal from 7pm to 5 am. I use it to illuminate the house main gate and the stair inside the house. Full charging time is about 6 hours. I think the manual re charging for four days is a typo, and should have been read as four hours. Medyo nakatipid ng konti.
thanks for the feedback... murang mura ang model na yan, kasi meron built-in dual port USB charger (1A & 2A) at may kasabay na 15W panel at tatlong 3W led bulbs... yung sa akin ay yung old model http://www.cdrking.com/index.php?mod=products&type=view&sid=18033&main=1#.VkZvGNIrJp8 , na nabili ko noong typhoon yolanda... so two years na sya ngayon... napansin ko na bumaba na ang capacity ng 12AH battery after less than 2 years (bugbog na gamit)... however, pwede naman palitan... depende sa seller, ang pinakamahal na 12AH batt ay about 2K.

New Arrival, cdr king
BAT-079-FHP (HXD12-12)
12V 12AH Deep Cycle Solar Battery, Php 990.00 <<< mura ito ah?
 
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When should I add water to my solar master battery?

ang sabi sa internet...

"How often you use and recharge your batteries will determine the frequency of watering. Also, using batteries in a hot climate will require more frequent watering. It is best to check your battery water level frequently and add distilled water when needed.

WARNING!! Never add tap water to your battery. Tap water contains minerals that will reduce battery capacity and increase their self-discharge rate."


my personal experience...

ang 100AH solar master battery ko ay araw-araw ginagamit at reni-recharge.. (setup: 160W panel >20A scc)

sinisigurado ko na araw-araw, ang battery ay full charge... floating na sya 10AM kung malakas ang araw at 3PM kung makulimlim ... nag-i-start akong gamitin ang battery kapag floating na (or after na abutin ang 14.8volts) at OFF ko na ang load (max +100W, hindi sabay-sabay) at around 3PM to 4:30 (depende sa sikat ng araw), para may matira pa na charge na pang-ilaw sa gabi (tatlong 4W led 12vdc bulbs, isa lang ang 6pm to 6am)... gumagamit din ako ng "battery alert"... nagbi-beep sya kung 50% DoD na (-12.2V) para ma-OFF ang load kung biglang kumulimlim.

sa ganitong klaseng gamit... na obserbahan ko na... nag-a-add ako ng distilled water every month (tinataon ko na Sunday)... BTW, ang pag-add pala ng distilled water ay AFTER CHARGING... therefore, kapag float na .. tsaka pa lang ako magda-dagdag ng distilled water.

ang solar master ko ay 2 years na this coming December 31, 2015... ang capacity nya ay parang brand new pa rin.

... share ko lang...
 
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Adding distilled water to solar master battery

naisipan ko na gumamit ng "graduated disposable syringe" to add distilled water... para masukat kung ilang milliliters (ml) ang magagamit sa bawat butas ng 70AH solar master... mabibili ang disposable syringe sa maga botika or medical supplies outlets... yung sa akin ay 30ml syringe (picture below).
0001860_kruuse-disposable-syringe-30ml.gif


napansin ko, na sa anim na butas (vent holes), ang isa ay mas maraming tubig ang kailangan... ... meaning, mas mabilis syang kumulo, as compared doon sa limang butas... meaning, delikado na masira agad ang cell na ito... o-obserbahan ko ang cell na ito, kung ganoon pa rin next month... btw, 15 ml per vent hole ang nagamit, pero yung isa ay 25 ml.

sa 100AH solar master, 22 ml ang nagamit bawat butas... meaning, equalization of each cell is OK.

Note: the amount of water added will depend on how you use and recharge your battery... kaya posibleng hindi tayo magkaka-pareho.
 
Adding distilled water to solar master battery

naisipan ko na gumamit ng "graduated disposable syringe" to add distilled water... para masukat kung ilang milliliters (ml) ang magagamit sa bawat butas ng 70AH solar master... mabibili ang disposable syringe sa maga botika or medical supplies outlets... yung sa akin ay 30ml syringe (picture below).
http://www.shearwell.co.uk/content/images/thumbs/0001860_kruuse-disposable-syringe-30ml.gif

napansin ko, na sa anim na butas (vent holes), ang isa ay mas maraming tubig ang kailangan... ... meaning, mas mabilis syang kumulo, as compared doon sa limang butas... meaning, delikado na masira agad ang cell na ito... o-obserbahan ko ang cell na ito, kung ganoon pa rin next month... btw, 15 ml per vent hole ang nagamit, pero yung isa ay 25 ml.

sa 100AH solar master, 22 ml ang nagamit bawat butas... meaning, equalization of each cell is OK.

Note: the amount of water added will depend on how you use and recharge your battery... kaya posibleng hindi tayo magkaka-pareho.

thanks po sa mga tip nyo , gamit ko po ay inochi 70 AH rechargeable lead acid battery ok po ba na brand ito
 
thanks po sa mga tip nyo , gamit ko po ay inochi 70 AH rechargeable lead acid battery ok po ba na brand ito
hindi pa ako naka-experience gumamit ng inochi brand... based on the website of the local distributor... it is described as:

"Centra-Inochi's absorbed glass mat (AGM) valve-regulated lead acid (VRLA) batteries"


so it is maintenance free, meaning hindi mo na kailangan mag-add ng distilled water... tsaka yung charge controller ay naka-set dapat sa AGM battery type para tama ang charging setting.


motolite lang kasi ang meron dealer sa probinsya namin, kaya walang option...

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Obama, Jack Ma and Aisa, on renewable energy startups - APEC 2015

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... paano kung magka-totoo?... eh di wow!
 
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