How to make your own home solar. With Pictures + solar book

[awinahe]

magtatanong lang ho sana..

plano ko ho kasing maglagay rin nang solar panel system d2 sa bahay..

mga magkano kaya ang magagastos?

anong mga dapat bilhin?

6kw per day ung nakukunsumo namin d2..

6 Kw/day is a lot for an off grid system... very expensive and should be done by an experimented technician.... Maybe you can avail a tie-grid system if you are a Meralco consumer

Instead of thinking of running all your house on solar, maybe you can start by only few appliances... (in off grid system, not so expensive, you cannot run on solar appliances like aircon, refs, washing machine...)

 

[TristanWS]

ma'am greeze10... IMO, kung para sa buong bahay na, kailangan na mag-consult sa professional solar installer... yung sa amin kasi ay small off-grid solar setup lang na pwedeng DIY... kung reliable naman ang kuryente dyan sa location mo, why not start a small solar setup for educational or hobby purpose?... then upgrade later when you really need to generate your own electricity.

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Magic LED Bulb (Intelligent Emergency Light Bulb)
Review by Raymond Quan, 13 Nov 2015, http://www.quan-diy.com/misc/led/batbulb.htm

The LED bulb has a built-in 18650 Li-ion battery backup which charges when AC mains is available. When AC power is off, the bulb has about 3.8V at 5uA available on the terminals. This is used so that it can detect if the AC switch is ON or OFF. When there is a load or resistance of about 100k or less connected between the terminals, the LED bulb turns on running on battery power. (meaning, kapag biglang nag-brown out, iilaw pa rin kasi ang built-in battery ang magpapa-ilaw).

The bulb could even light up if there is sufficient conductivity of the skin. (the reason why it is called magic bulb).

It seems to have a decent runtime of over 5hrs on a full battery and gradually dims as the battery runs down. Charging time from empty is about the same duration. It runs at the battery voltage all the time even on AC power so it starts out dim (when the battery is run down) then gradually increases in brightness as the battery charges when on AC power.

Note: The author and I share the same concern that since the built-in Li-ion battery is inside the bulb enclosure, it will be exposed to high temperature shortening its lifetime. The author have not yet tested said product for long term durability. I have also ordered this product for personal testing and use.

Available online here: http://www.lazada.com.ph/7w-intelligent-water-power-emergency-magic-light-bulb-3853326.html

 

[awinahe]

Magic LED Bulb (Intelligent Emergency Light Bulb)

Before going for solar I had 2 of this kind of bulbs (I still have actually but never use them) They have a very small sealed lead acid battery (4 volts/0.6 Ah) it has inside 19 pc of LEDs. I bought them, I think less than 100 pesos each in a "chinese" store here in Puerto... the brand is NSS. The battery as far as I remember last around 4 hrs before the light dimmed. The only difference is that it does not light on when holding it!!

 

[TristanWS]

DC Power Meter and AC Power Meter (4 in 1)

Share ko lang… nabasa ko sa SolarPowerPhilippines FB group… important accessories for our solar set up… maganda ito na pang monitor ng voltage (V), amperes (A), power (W) at energy (Wh)… makikita ang apat sa display, kaya tinawag na 4 in one. Note na magkaiba ang DC power meter sa AC power meter. Ang DC power meter ay included na ang Current Shunt Resistor… ang AC power meter naman ay kasabay na ang CT (Current Transformer or sensor)

Details here: https://web.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1561453767517567&set=gm.1061742767239289&type=3&theater

 

[wamiruk]

DC Power Meter and AC Power Meter (4 in 1)

http://i68.tinypic.com/20qjcyc.jpg

Share ko lang… nabasa ko sa SolarPowerPhilippines FB group… important accessories for our solar set up… maganda ito na pang monitor ng voltage (V), amperes (A), power (W) at energy (Wh)… makikita ang apat sa display, kaya tinawag na 4 in one. Note na magkaiba ang DC power meter sa AC power meter. Ang DC power meter ay included na ang Current Shunt Resistor… ang AC power meter naman ay kasabay na ang CT (Current Transformer or sensor)

Details here: https://web.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1561453767517567&set=gm.1061742767239289&type=3&theater

meron ako nakita neto sa ebay sir...tag 12.50usd ata yan..kasama na shipping...kaso baka abutin 3wks bago maka dating ng pinas...
kaso di ko alam kung accurate din yung reading ng voltage pati current

 

[19charly2012]

Hi maam magtatanong lang po kung ilang DC Capacitor Microfarad ba ang gagamitin doon ko ikakabit sa battery e kasi pangit ang reception ng tv pumasok ang noise ng inverter sa TV lagyan ko sana ng dc capacitor i parallel ko sa battery. puydi po ba? salamat sa pagsagot.

 

[awinahe]

Hi maam magtatanong lang po kung ilang DC Capacitor Microfarad ba ang gagamitin doon ko ikakabit sa battery e kasi pangit ang reception ng tv pumasok ang noise ng inverter sa TV lagyan ko sana ng dc capacitor i parallel ko sa battery. puydi po ba? salamat sa pagsagot.

Sorry, I'm not very knowledgeable about capacitors... but I'm not sure that what you plan to do will work to stop the noise from the inverter to the tv. What kind of inverter is it? Is your tv LED? Maybe your inverter is too near from your tv set...

 

[19charly2012]

Sorry, I'm not very knowledgeable about capacitors... but I'm not sure that what you plan to do will work to stop the noise from the inverter to the tv. What kind of inverter is it? Is your tv LED? Maybe your inverter is too near from your tv set...

CRT pa po ang TV ko at ang Inverter ko ko po pure sine wave .

 

[TristanWS]

sir 19charly2012... yung inverter mo ba ay may wire para sa ground connection?... na-try mo na ba i-ground?... at yung gumagamit naman ng capacitor ay para pangontra sa sudden draw of large amount of current, example sa mga de-motor na appliances... hindi pang-filter na noise... (hindi ko rin sigurado, kasi wala din ako personal experience).

 

[19charly2012]

sir 19charly2012... yung inverter mo ba ay may wire para sa ground connection?... na-try mo na ba i-ground?... at yung gumagamit naman ng capacitor ay para pangontra sa sudden draw of large amount of current, example sa mga de-motor na appliances... hindi pang-filter na noise... (hindi ko rin sigurado, kasi wala din ako personal experience).

Okay maam kulang yata sa ground salamat. try ko,

at Patulong naman po maam Solar Ko 100watts each x2=200w for parallel connection Batteries 2 x 170Ah=340Ah, Inverter 1200w ito kasi ang Experience ko pag peak Hr ang solar run to 14 to 15V thesame sa reading ng Batteries e kasi naka float na.. pero ngayon kahit na peak hrs. hindi na equal ang voltage solar 14.9v ang battery ko po 13v nalang at madali na siyang ma lowbat. patulong naman po baka naka Experience kayo ng ganito mga almost One month palang ang gamit. salamat sa pagsagot.

 

[awinahe]

Okay maam kulang yata sa ground salamat. try ko,

at Patulong naman po maam Solar Ko 100watts each x2=200w for parallel connection Batteries 2 x 170Ah=340Ah, Inverter 1200w ito kasi ang Experience ko pag peak Hr ang solar run to 14 to 15V thesame sa reading ng Batteries e kasi naka float na.. pero ngayon kahit na peak hrs. hindi na equal ang voltage solar 14.9v ang battery ko po 13v nalang at madali na siyang ma lowbat. patulong naman po baka naka Experience kayo ng ganito mga almost One month palang ang gamit. salamat sa pagsagot.

Your batteries are undercharged which is very bad... You don't have enough solar panels. With 370 Ah of batteries you should have at least 400 watts of panels. What kind of controller do you have PWM or MPPT? For now you need to fully recharge your batteries fast and try to equalize them. To do so, unplug your panels from your controller and plug your panels directly to the battery bank and let charge until you get 15 volts...


For your info ako Si Maam, TristanWS ay Sir

 

[TristanWS]

sir 19charly2012... sa pagka-intindi ko sa post mo, ang binibigay ng 200W panel mo ay 14 to 15V... kung Voc (Open Circuit Voltage) ito, mababa sya... dapat umabot ng >21V.

yung battery naman... kung ang 13V ay voltage while charging at peak hours, mababa din sya... dapat ay umabot ang voltage ng batt ng more than 14V.

brand new ba ang mga batteries mo?... kung brand new, dapat ay "charging without load" ka muna hanggang umabot sa 15V... hayaan mo lang sa 15V charging ng mga dalawang oras (equalize).

NOTE: meron ka ba AC charger?... kung wala... i-rekta mo ang panel sa battery... BANTAYAN mo habang naka-rekta ang panel sa battery... DOBLE INGAT sa pag-connect ng panel rekta sa battery... baka mabaliktad ang polarity! kapag mabaliktad ang polarity, pwedeng masunog ang Bypass diodes ng panel!.

Bakit dapat naka-rekta? Kung PWM scc ang gamit mo, hindi aabot ng 15V ang battery... kasi naka-set lang ang scc sa 14.8V max.

 

[19charly2012]

Your batteries are undercharged which is very bad... You don't have enough solar panels. With 370 Ah of batteries you should have at least 400 watts of panels. What kind of controller do you have PWM or MPPT? For now you need to fully recharge your batteries fast and try to equalize them. To do so, unplug your panels from your controller and plug your panels directly to the battery bank and let charge until you get 15 volts...


For your info ako Si Maam, TristanWS ay Sir

PWM lang souer 30A gamit ko sir TristanWS dati kasi umaabot ng 15V ang solar fully charged na ang battery, ganoon pa rin ang set up ko.ngayon hindi na umaabot.

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sir 19charly2012... sa pagka-intindi ko sa post mo, ang binibigay ng 200W panel mo ay 14 to 15V... kung Voc (Open Circuit Voltage) ito, mababa sya... dapat umabot ng >21V.

yung battery naman... kung ang 13V ay voltage while charging at peak hours, mababa din sya... dapat ay umabot ang voltage ng batt ng more than 14V.

brand new ba ang mga batteries mo?... kung brand new, dapat ay "charging without load" ka muna hanggang umabot sa 15V... hayaan mo lang sa 15V charging ng mga dalawang oras (equalize).

NOTE: meron ka ba AC charger?... kung wala... i-rekta mo ang panel sa battery... BANTAYAN mo habang naka-rekta ang panel sa battery... DOBLE INGAT sa pag-connect ng panel rekta sa battery... baka mabaliktad ang polarity! kapag mabaliktad ang polarity, pwedeng masunog ang Bypass diodes ng panel!.

Bakit dapat naka-rekta? Kung PWM scc ang gamit mo, hindi aabot ng 15V ang battery... kasi naka-set lang ang scc sa 14.8V max.

na try ko na po, 21V open ckt. yan pero pag na connect ko na bababa ang voltage ng PV ko from 12v up to 15V so working na yan w/ load. angbattery vary from 14 to 14.6v yata.

 

[awinahe]

PWM lang souer 30A gamit ko sir TristanWS dati kasi umaabot ng 15V ang solar fully charged na ang battery, ganoon pa rin ang set up ko.ngayon hindi na umaabot.

na try ko na po, 21V open ckt. yan pero pag na connect ko na bababa ang voltage ng PV ko from 12v up to 15V so working na yan w/ load. angbattery vary from 14 to 14.6v yata.

With a PWM controller and 200 watt panels you cannot recharge your batteries properly.... It worked when you started because your batteries were new and fully charged but the more you use them, the less they are recharged, they loose everyday a little of their capacity. It like you have a 1 liter bottle of water where you drink everyday 1/2 liter and you just refill 1/4 water... so after a while you don't have any water left! It the same for your batteries if you use them and don't recharge them properly.

The solutions for you are:

1. direct connection of the panels to the batteries (but in this case you need to replace a 100 watt panel by only a 50 watt panel)
2. add another 200 watt panels
3 add 100 watt panel and change your controller for a MPPT one
4. depends on your load you could also remove one battery (but sayang!)

 

[TristanWS]

sir 19charly2012... so, ang scc ay souer PWM 30A... how about the "Batteries 2 x 170Ah"?... telco surplus ba ito?... kasi ang "madali na ma lowbat" ay senyales na sira, luma na ang battery or sulfated na ang battery dahil araw araw ay undercharge... ang solusyon sa sulfation due to undercharging ay "charging without load" then "equalize".

nasabi mo na kung paano mo tsina-charge ang battery... ang opinyon namin ni ma'am TS ay undercharge ka (or kulang ang charging).

paano mo naman siya dini-discharge?... ilang watts ba ang load mo at ilang oras mo ginagamit?

kapag hindi tama ang pag-charge at pag-discharge ng battery, madali ito masisira.

 

[TristanWS]

Used Telecoms Batteries, negative feedback from a user
Source: https://web.facebook.com/groups/solarpowerphilippines/search/?query=Ortiz Usapang baterya!

"Usapang baterya!!! Tama ang advise ng mga masters dito (SolarPowerPhilippines). Hangat maaari bumili na lang ng brand new battery. Yong binili ko 3pcs na telco bumigay na lahat 8 months lang. Mahal ang nagtitipid. I learned the hard way. Sabi ng RME na friend ko, parang me sakit sa puso ang telco used. Di mo alam kelan ma deadball. Pero nasa sa buyer pa din desisyon. Wag lang umasang tatagal like brand new." - Denz Z Ortiz, SolarPowerPhil FB Group, 4/4/2016

Additional info from the poster:
1. "madali ma fullcharge... Madali din discharge. Sign of old age"
2. Ang dahilan daw ng pagka stroke ng telco battery ko ay dahil PWM SCC SUOER ginamit ko sa ACME Gel type battery. Dapat daw MPPT lang
3. PWM scc lang yan sir... wala namang battery type selector ang scc. So SCC ang main factor na maaga namahinga yan?
4. Yong 2 IBT na VRLA ganyan din nangyari, retired na din. MPPT naman scc non
5. malakas daw charge nyan (PWM SCC SUOER ). Mababa lang daw ang bulk at absorption charge ng Gel battery

Useful comments:
Raymond Y. Quan: Ang acme G gel type pag ginamit mo sa scc na naka agm setting wasak talaga yan. Mas mababa kasi ang bulk, absorb and float ng gel kumpara sa agm. Nangyari na din sa akin yan kaya palit ako ng agm lahat. Yung gel kasi pag na overcharge ng kahit konti pag bumula yung gel wala pupuntahan kaya magiging butas butas ang gel electrolyte kaya babagsak capacity. Yung akin kinatok katok ko ng rubber mallet sa gilid naibalik ng konti ang capacity pero di na gaya ng dati.

Jeff Alcantara: Pwm ay hindi nya controll ang amp, giangawa nya kung ano na harvest nya ay yun ang ibubuhos nya unlike sa mppt na bago nya ilagay yung current ay check nya muna status ng battery mo po... Yung mamahaling mppt ay na adjust ang float charge pati schedule ng equalization at time na naka bulk... Yung float charge iba-iba dipende sa design ng battery mo po, yang narada f ay 13.6v float charge nyan kaya kapag ang charger mo ay buong mag hapon naka 14.6v ay maluluto nya battery mo ang tawag doon ay corrosion at irreversible na sya... Mas mababa ang G, 13.4v... Yung cycle rated lang din po sya at masusunod lang yan kung tama ang pag charge ng controller at pag discharge ng load, yung sa telco hindi design for solar kasi design sya for UPS mayroon talagang deep cycle na para sa solar.

Sigurado mas mahaba life ni bnew battery kaysa kay 2nd hand telco pero kung tama din ang charging at discharge, kahit naka 2nd hand telco battery ka pero maayos ang controller mo mas possible na tatagal against sa new battery pero di tama ang settings ng controller. Ito na gustuhan ko kay fangpusan flexmax, kaya mo ma abot ang required limit ng any brand ng battery para humaba buhay ng deep cycle. Note: di lahat ng Deep cycle battery ay parehas ang required absorption time kaya mas ok pa din na may option ang controller mo na override settings.

Ed Brisenio: Usually gel battery mas mababa talaga ang absorption and float voltage. Mas bagay kapag na aadjust settings ng scc

Jack Atone: acme G ... pag nakababad yan sa 14.4-14.8 wasak .

Conclusion: Hindi pare-pareho ang pag-charge at pag-discharge sa battery. Basahin mabuti ang data sheet or label ng battery para malaman ang charge at discharge rate na recommended ng manufacturer. Example below (picture courtesy of sir wamiruk).

 

[rakenrol]

Kamusta na TS. May log ka na magkano ang natipid mo matapos ka magsetup ng solar?

 

[awinahe]

Kamusta na TS. May log ka na magkano ang natipid mo matapos ka magsetup ng solar?

Before using solar our monthly consumption was around 75 Kw. Since we have solar (+timer for the ref) our monthly consumption is 23 Kw (in rainy season 25 Kw)

 

[TristanWS]

sir rakenrol... are you referring to the DC Power Meter and AC Power Meter (4 in 1)?... ako kasi ang nag-post noon sa page 493... yes, the gadget can log the energy (Wh) na nagamit mo... using the AC and DC power meter, na-estimate ko na mababawi ko ang cost ng 100AH solar master battery sa loob ng 3 years and 9 months (estimated at 36% actual DoD daily)... ibig sabihin, kapag nasira ang battery ng maaga, magiging katulad lang siya ng battery ng kotse na yung pag-gamit mo lang ang pakinabang (hindi babalik ang perang pinambili).

pero dahil sa palaging brownout dito sa amin, praktikal pa rin na may off-grid solar setup... kung pagpi-piliin ako between portable genset or solar, sa solar pa rin ako... at least posibleng bumalik ang perang pinambili ng battery... hindi katulad ng generator na usok at ingay ang balik ng pera mo.

 

[TristanWS]

Motolite Solar Master 120AH, the electrolyte is colored brown or black,... a Warranty Limitation

Share ko lang itong nabasa ko sa SolarPowerPhil FB Group (4/6/2016)... nag-kulay itim ang electrolyte... nasira daw ang plate ng battery dahil sa na-overchage kasi hindi daw gumagamit ng scc... less than one year or within warranty pa ang battery... nagtatanong ngayon kung pwede pa isauli kapag nag-kulay itim ang electrolyte.

Additional info from the poster:
"Hndi na overcharge yan kse 200 watts panel and 120ah yung battery and may pisonet ako kaya imposibleng ma overcharge hndi nmn umaabot ng 15 v yan 14.7 pinaka mataas"

Useful comments:
1) yan cnsbi ko sau maccra agad battery kapag wala scc...

2) nag back read din ako ng mga comments it seems to me na hindi ka gumagamit ng charge controller ... that is also not recommended.. charge controller will take good care of your battery

3) Shedding, corrosion ng plate at overvoltage kaya ganyan kulay elevtrolyte

4) Sad to say po wala na solution sa corrosion pero ang sulfate 50% chance ma revive pa, ito yung sinasabi ko na kahit new battery kapag di na sunod ang tamang charging ay iiksi lifespan.

Copy/Paste from Motolite site regarding warranty limitations:
LIMITATIONS: The warranty is not valid if on the sole judgment of the manufacturer or its representatives, the following conditions exist:
Battery fails because of overcharging or undercharging due to faulty electrical system (of the vehicle).

Details here: http://www.motolite.com/warranty-terms-and-conditions

Conclusion: Void pala ang warranty ng motolite kapag na overcharge or undercharge due to faulty electrical system... meaning, swerte kung mabait ang dealer at makuha pa sa pakiusap... malas kung ayaw na i-honor ang warranty.

Therefore, kapag gumagamit ng battery, dapat pag-aralan mabuti kung paano ang tamang pag-charge at pag-discharge... para hindi masayang ang pinambili... pinaka-mahal pa naman ang battery sa off-grid setup.