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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
NUVALI
NUVALI
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PHOTOGRAPHY thread
- Thread starter .rika
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ngayon ko lang nakita to! galing-galing naman ni te kers!!! 
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
magkaka bukol ka sa dami nyan 
eto pa, just to make up for my failed attemp on my first post on the bug, just got C&Cs from other forum and It is really underexposed
Didn't really get the concept I want.
so what do you think guys? medyo ok naba? hehe, eto talaga weakness ko
magkaka bukol ka sa dami nyan eto pa, just to make up for my failed attemp on my first post on the bug, just got C&Cs from other forum and It is really underexposed
Didn't really get the concept I want.
so what do you think guys? medyo ok naba? hehe, eto talaga weakness ko
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
@jam..medyo madilim nga ehh
napasin ko din na parang maliit na aperture ginamit mo ..naka focus lang sa maliit na may gilid..
try mo kaya na mga mga f8 o f11( para sharp lahat).di ko lang sure kung ung light source mo ehh na me meter mo( di ako marunong nun)
minsan ginagawa ko.. lagay ko sa P-mode,papa meter ko muna..tapos lagay ko sa F8 o f11..tandaan ko ung shutter speed.
tapos punta ako sa manual mode ...lipat lipat lang ako sa shutter speed( taas baba) para makuha ung shot na gusto ko...para ka kasing nag babago ng exposure compensation pag ganun ehh.
pero ok na ok ung mga revised shots mo!!
@jam..medyo madilim nga ehh
napasin ko din na parang maliit na aperture ginamit mo ..naka focus lang sa maliit na may gilid..
try mo kaya na mga mga f8 o f11( para sharp lahat).di ko lang sure kung ung light source mo ehh na me meter mo( di ako marunong nun)
minsan ginagawa ko.. lagay ko sa P-mode,papa meter ko muna..tapos lagay ko sa F8 o f11..tandaan ko ung shutter speed.
tapos punta ako sa manual mode ...lipat lipat lang ako sa shutter speed( taas baba) para makuha ung shot na gusto ko...para ka kasing nag babago ng exposure compensation pag ganun ehh.
pero ok na ok ung mga revised shots mo!!
Last edited:
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
ito ung inaaply ko sa exposure system..
Simplified Zone System
ALL the exposimeters of ALL (and I do mean ALL) the cameras on the market are factory-calibrated on a so-called MEDIUM TONE (18% grey) subject, which corresponds to an average of the real-world subjects a photographer is likely to aim his camera at. (This also applies to ALL the expensive stand-alone exposimeters - just in case you were wondering) If your specific subject is MEDIUM TONE too (such as e.g. a typical meadow), all you have to do is blindly trust your camera exposimeter, and shoot. Complex scenes (e.g a group of people dressed in all sorts of light and dark colours) will not require any particular exposure adjustments either, as long as the different "patches" of colour are distributed so as to give an average reading that is not too far from the famous "MEDIUM TONE subject".
BUT if you want to photograph a scene whose TONE is globally lighter or darker than normal, some kind of exposure compensation will be necessary. For instance, if your subject is a bride in a traditional white dress, posing in front of a light yellow wall, the camera will suggest an exposure that will make the scene match its factory-set MEDIUM TONE standard. In other words, you will get a grey dress and a deep yellow wall - not exactly a flattering picture you could sell ! In this case, it will be necessary to INCREASE the exposure, by opening up the diaphragm and/or using a slower shutter speed. On the contrary, dark subjects require LESS exposure (narrower apertures and/or faster shutter speeds) than the camera suggests.
The TABLE below indicates how much you should alter the exposure in order to match the TONE of the subject.
...but it does more than that, really. And here is where the fun begins.
Reproduced TONE ZONE Exposimeter reading Result Examples
II -3 STOP BLACK (no detail) -
III -2 STOP Very dark Dark shadows in bright sunlight, black subjects with detail (darkest areas of the frame with detail)
IV -1 STOP Dark Dark vegetation (e.g. fir trees), soft shadows, black skin
V 0 STOP MEDIUM Green grass, deep blue sky, tanned Caucasian skin
VI +1 STOP Light Light rock, yellow subjects, shady snow, pale blue sky, sky at sunset, light Caucasian skin
VII +2 STOP Very Light Bright white subjects, sunlit snow (brightest areas of the frame to retain some detail)
VIII +3 STOP WHITE (no detail) -
Actually, this TABLE can be used as a reference in order to apply a "Simplified ZONE System" when measuring exposure.
The famous American landscape photographer Ansel Adams first devised the ZONE System to be able to extract the maximum amount of detail out of his black-and-white prints, but the basic principle applies to all kinds of photography.
In fact, Ansel Adams referred to MEDIUM TONE as ZONE V (5), because by using large-format black-and-white sheet film and advanced developing and printing techniques he was able to squeeze a maximum of TEN full STOPs of dynamic range out of his photographs.
However, most colour slide films and digital sensors are capable of faithfully recording a more restricted range of luminosity, spanning roughly FIVE to SIX STOPS. Anything outside that range will be recorded as plain black or white.
So: how does one go about putting all this into practice? To cut it short, it works more or less like this:
1. Setting your exposimeter to "SPOT", you measure a small area of interest in the frame, bearing in mind that the exposimeter is calibrated to ZONE V (= MEDIUM TONE). If you want the measured area to appear of MEDIUM TONE in your photo, you set the Aperture and Speed controls to match the indications of the exposimeter; otherwise, if you want it to be lighter or darker, you respectively increase or decrease the exposure, by adjusting the Aperture and/or Speed (within a maximum of +/- 2 STOPs). By doing this you are effectively POSITIONING that area in one of the available exposure ZONES. E.g. If you measure a slab of granite rock and set the controls so that the exposimeter indicates +1 STOP, you know that it will be recorded as a medium-light TONE in your photograph (ZONE VI).
2. Leaving the controls as they are, you then aim the SPOT meter at other areas of the frame, to check in which ZONES they will "fall". E.g. if those trees at the bottom read -1 STOP, you know that it will come out a medium-dark TONE (ZONE IV).
3. If all the measurements are within a range of -2 to +2 STOPs (i.e. ZONE III to ZONE VII), all is nice and well. Otherwise, if the scene has a luminosity range that exceeds the dynamic range that can be recorded, i.e. if some of the SPOT measurements you have just made read -3 STOP (ZONE II) or under, or +3 STOP (ZONE VIII) or over, you then know that these will respectively be reproduced as pure black, or pure white. It is then YOUR CHOICE (*) if and how to alter the exposure settings, either by INCREASING the exposure so as to "rescue" the darkest areas of the frame (at the same time making everything else lighter, of course), or on the other hand by DECREASING the exposure, thus preventing those brightest areas from being "burnt out" (in this case, everything else will come out a little darker).
(*) As a general rule, using slide film or digital cameras, it is better to avoid overexposure (i.e. areas of the frame that are "burnt out" and recorded as pure white), while it is often subjectively acceptable for deep shadows to be reproduced as even darker (i.e. black). It is therefore often recommendable to reduce the exposure for even the brightest areas of a frame by 1/3 of a STOP (i.e. expose them at +1.7 STOP rather than at +2 STOP).
sala..wala ung table...heto ung link
http://www.pbase.com/marcoraugei/zone
ito ung inaaply ko sa exposure system..
Simplified Zone System
ALL the exposimeters of ALL (and I do mean ALL) the cameras on the market are factory-calibrated on a so-called MEDIUM TONE (18% grey) subject, which corresponds to an average of the real-world subjects a photographer is likely to aim his camera at. (This also applies to ALL the expensive stand-alone exposimeters - just in case you were wondering) If your specific subject is MEDIUM TONE too (such as e.g. a typical meadow), all you have to do is blindly trust your camera exposimeter, and shoot. Complex scenes (e.g a group of people dressed in all sorts of light and dark colours) will not require any particular exposure adjustments either, as long as the different "patches" of colour are distributed so as to give an average reading that is not too far from the famous "MEDIUM TONE subject".
BUT if you want to photograph a scene whose TONE is globally lighter or darker than normal, some kind of exposure compensation will be necessary. For instance, if your subject is a bride in a traditional white dress, posing in front of a light yellow wall, the camera will suggest an exposure that will make the scene match its factory-set MEDIUM TONE standard. In other words, you will get a grey dress and a deep yellow wall - not exactly a flattering picture you could sell ! In this case, it will be necessary to INCREASE the exposure, by opening up the diaphragm and/or using a slower shutter speed. On the contrary, dark subjects require LESS exposure (narrower apertures and/or faster shutter speeds) than the camera suggests.
The TABLE below indicates how much you should alter the exposure in order to match the TONE of the subject.
...but it does more than that, really. And here is where the fun begins.
Reproduced TONE ZONE Exposimeter reading Result Examples
II -3 STOP BLACK (no detail) -
III -2 STOP Very dark Dark shadows in bright sunlight, black subjects with detail (darkest areas of the frame with detail)
IV -1 STOP Dark Dark vegetation (e.g. fir trees), soft shadows, black skin
V 0 STOP MEDIUM Green grass, deep blue sky, tanned Caucasian skin
VI +1 STOP Light Light rock, yellow subjects, shady snow, pale blue sky, sky at sunset, light Caucasian skin
VII +2 STOP Very Light Bright white subjects, sunlit snow (brightest areas of the frame to retain some detail)
VIII +3 STOP WHITE (no detail) -
Actually, this TABLE can be used as a reference in order to apply a "Simplified ZONE System" when measuring exposure.
The famous American landscape photographer Ansel Adams first devised the ZONE System to be able to extract the maximum amount of detail out of his black-and-white prints, but the basic principle applies to all kinds of photography.
In fact, Ansel Adams referred to MEDIUM TONE as ZONE V (5), because by using large-format black-and-white sheet film and advanced developing and printing techniques he was able to squeeze a maximum of TEN full STOPs of dynamic range out of his photographs.
However, most colour slide films and digital sensors are capable of faithfully recording a more restricted range of luminosity, spanning roughly FIVE to SIX STOPS. Anything outside that range will be recorded as plain black or white.
So: how does one go about putting all this into practice? To cut it short, it works more or less like this:
1. Setting your exposimeter to "SPOT", you measure a small area of interest in the frame, bearing in mind that the exposimeter is calibrated to ZONE V (= MEDIUM TONE). If you want the measured area to appear of MEDIUM TONE in your photo, you set the Aperture and Speed controls to match the indications of the exposimeter; otherwise, if you want it to be lighter or darker, you respectively increase or decrease the exposure, by adjusting the Aperture and/or Speed (within a maximum of +/- 2 STOPs). By doing this you are effectively POSITIONING that area in one of the available exposure ZONES. E.g. If you measure a slab of granite rock and set the controls so that the exposimeter indicates +1 STOP, you know that it will be recorded as a medium-light TONE in your photograph (ZONE VI).
2. Leaving the controls as they are, you then aim the SPOT meter at other areas of the frame, to check in which ZONES they will "fall". E.g. if those trees at the bottom read -1 STOP, you know that it will come out a medium-dark TONE (ZONE IV).
3. If all the measurements are within a range of -2 to +2 STOPs (i.e. ZONE III to ZONE VII), all is nice and well. Otherwise, if the scene has a luminosity range that exceeds the dynamic range that can be recorded, i.e. if some of the SPOT measurements you have just made read -3 STOP (ZONE II) or under, or +3 STOP (ZONE VIII) or over, you then know that these will respectively be reproduced as pure black, or pure white. It is then YOUR CHOICE (*) if and how to alter the exposure settings, either by INCREASING the exposure so as to "rescue" the darkest areas of the frame (at the same time making everything else lighter, of course), or on the other hand by DECREASING the exposure, thus preventing those brightest areas from being "burnt out" (in this case, everything else will come out a little darker).
(*) As a general rule, using slide film or digital cameras, it is better to avoid overexposure (i.e. areas of the frame that are "burnt out" and recorded as pure white), while it is often subjectively acceptable for deep shadows to be reproduced as even darker (i.e. black). It is therefore often recommendable to reduce the exposure for even the brightest areas of a frame by 1/3 of a STOP (i.e. expose them at +1.7 STOP rather than at +2 STOP).
sala..wala ung table...heto ung link
http://www.pbase.com/marcoraugei/zone
Last edited:
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
thanks elmo. naka f5.6 ata ako dyan sa last post ko. ill try your suggestion next time
Try ko rin yang P-mode technique mo.
thanks elmo. naka f5.6 ata ako dyan sa last post ko. ill try your suggestion next time
Try ko rin yang P-mode technique mo.
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
yan naman talaga masarap sa digital.. mas madaling mag experiment....
ang hirap nga lang intindihin nung mga metering at exposure compensation 
kelangan kabisado mo ung camera mo para sa iba ibang lighting conditions...
thanks elmo. naka f5.6 ata ako dyan sa last post ko. ill try your suggestion next time
Try ko rin yang P-mode technique mo.
yan naman talaga masarap sa digital.. mas madaling mag experiment....
ang hirap nga lang intindihin nung mga metering at exposure compensation kelangan kabisado mo ung camera mo para sa iba ibang lighting conditions...
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Re: { PHOTOGRAPHY } thread
nice posts guys,. newbie lng me d2 sa symbianize.
tagal ko na di nag-pophotoshots.
here are some of my shots dati. from my gallery. ehehe
camera: CASIO EXILIM EX-Z850
here's the photo source - www.ebc-photography.co.cc
nice posts guys,. newbie lng me d2 sa symbianize.
tagal ko na di nag-pophotoshots.
here are some of my shots dati. from my gallery. ehehe
camera: CASIO EXILIM EX-Z850
here's the photo source - www.ebc-photography.co.cc
